I'd have to wonder if we wouldn't ideally want a more vicsous oil for the main job of lubrication.Īir tools tend to be a high-speed, low-load environment for the oiled parts, so the primary design considerations are for a thin oil that is non-volitile, so it doesn't 'diesel.' The light oil does help to keep it from collecting muck, though that's not the primary decsion factor for oil. Done every few days.or every day, it keeps the chain very clean, though if you carry your bike inside a vehicle, after a ride the lube and chain will stain stuff until you wipe it down.Ī quart of this stuff is about the same price as a few grams of Pedros or any other 'designer' oil.You can find it at most hardware or builders supply stores. The excess oil grabs a bunch of the dirt off the chain and the cassette and chainrings.
I clean off the excess oil with an absorbent rag. Then I spin the crank backwards for a bit and then shift (forward) through all the gears a few times. I lube my chain with it every few days, just spin the back wheel backwards and drip some on as the chain goes over the cassette. I ain't a chemist so that could all be BS, but I've used it in my precision air tools for years, a couple of drops per day as specified by the tool makers and my tools always work. Much better than Triflow or diluted motor oil or even specific bicycle chain lube.because it is just a couple a bucks for like a quart.(that will last me about 8000 miles) It usually has a drip type dispenser nozzle on the bottle and it supposedly has an anti-gumming and cleaning component to it. I had my carpentry tools along in the van, including my nail gun and some Senco air tool oil. A few years ago I was without specific bike type oil (I used to use Triflow) and my chain was getting pretty grungy while on a road trip.
Sorry for rambling, I'll end with saying try it if you don't like it, you're only out $3, and it probably won't be harmful, but keep an eye on it.Those of you who use oil on your chain.Try some of the oil used in air tools. of CLP or whatever is my current favorite will last a long time, and at less than $5 is not really a major expense. I don't know how liberally you use oil, but I probably use less than 4 oz. I doubt most lube points in firearms are really extreme environments for me a good gun oil will stay more or less where I applied it, will work as a corrosion inhibitor, will not oxidize turning gummy & sticky, and most definitely doesn't smell like S.A.E 140 gear oil Penetrating oils are gererally lousy as lubricants.
WD40 is designed to "creep" (Kroil does it better though). Some run off the surfaces while others stick and have some rust inhibiting properties. Some oils are for high-temperature environments. 10W30 acts somewhat as a coolant as well as a lubricant. Oils are "designed" to do different things some are for extreme pressure, like differential gear oil. Been a while since I've bought any, but it's most likely under $2/qt. In a dire pinch, you could get away with salad oil for a while.ġ0W30 is even cheaper at WallyMart.
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